Ask the Expert -- Equine Management

Ask the Expert Main Page
Equine Management		Nutrition
	Diseases & Disorders		Grain & Feed Mixes
	Stress & Behavior		Hay
	Other Topics		Pasture
			Supplements
Farm & Pasture Management			Other Topics

	Fertilizers & Herbicides		Poisonous Plants
	Manure Management
	Other Topics		Medical Disclaimer

What is “blistering?”
Do horse boots support the leg? Do they interfere with jumping?
Can bow-leggedness be corrected?
How much does a horse cost per month?
What is a good de-worming schedule for horses?
Is there a blood test for Dunalinos?
How can we eliminate horse flies?
Are fly sprays with DEET safe for horses?
Do garlic products really control flies and ticks?
How old is too old to geld a stallion?
When and how should a colt be gelded?
What is the best way to haul a horse?
How do you "dry up" a lactating mare?
What do you suggest for raising orphan foals?
Are horses regarded as pets or as livestock throughout the United States?
Is there a product that can be fed to a horse to get rid of sand in the intestines?
How does a horse’s spleen store red blood cells?
How tall will my young horse get?
What product can eliminate tapeworms?
Which vaccines do you recommend for horses stabled in New Jersey?
How long can a horse live without water?
How much water does a miniature horse drink daily?

I have been asking many of my horse friends about using blisters as therapy for torn ligaments and they do not approve of this method. Why is that? Could you explain more about the procedure and why it is controversial?

“Blistering” is the practice of applying an irritating substance to a horse’s affected area in order to create an inflammatory reaction. It is used to try and make a chronic inflammation an acute one. Horse owners blister their horse’s legs in an effort to speed up the healing process and reduce the swelling after a ligament or tendon injury. Other owners use blistering in everything from ringbone to poll evil. Blistering is safe when done properly and when done by the recommendation of a veterinarian. It is typically done two to three weeks after the original inflammation has died down. At that time, healing of the ligament or tendon is dependent entirely on the amount of blood flow to the injured area.

Blistering is a controversial method of medical care for horses. Some people say that the extra irritation reduces swelling and increases the blood flow so that the injury heals more quickly. There are other points of view. For tendon/ligament injuries, some veterinarians use a semi-rigid cast on the leg that holds the tendons in place. This cast, along with stall rest, heals the injury to the ligament or tendon as well as blistering does, without causing unnecessary irritation to the skin. Veterinarians can also repair torn ligaments or tendons with surgery.

Blistering is done in one of two fashions, paint blisters or ointment blisters. Paint blisters are a more mild form of blistering that is usually a liquid form. They have to be applied daily to the affected area. Paint blisters are sometimes applied to the coronet to increase hoof growth.

Ointment blisters are a stronger type of blister and should only be used under the supervision of a veterinarian. Ointment blisters are typically made up of Spanish fly, red iodide or mercury. For the appropriate application of an ointment blister, the hair must be clipped close to the skin of the affected area. All dirt must be brushed away from the area and the area must be cleaned. The horse must then be tied so that it cannot rub, lick, or bite the blistering ointment. The blistering ointment should then be rubbed on the affected area so that the ointment gets deep within the pores. The severity of the reaction to the blistering ointment depends on the concentration of the ointment, how long and vigorously the ointment was rubbed in, and the thickness of the horse’s skin. Three days after the ointment has been applied, the affected area should be cleaned again with gentle soap and warm water. After the area has been thoroughly dried, petroleum jelly or sweet oil should be applied to the affected area to prevent the skin from drying out.

One of the biggest problems with blistering is that it is done by horsemen who have not had proper training in blistering or who blister their horses instead of calling a veterinarian. Blistering is useful when done properly, but if the horseman does not call a vet, and incorrectly diagnoses the problem, then blistering will not help the horse. It just creates unnecessary pain as well as an increased risk of lameness and infection. To the untrained horseman, a blister can appear to help a horse - but what is really helping the horse is the stall rest it receives as a result of the blistering. Since the horseman typically thinks the horse is being helped, he might hesitate to call a veterinarian in the future. Also, if the horseman does not take proper precautions to keep the horse away from the blistering ointment, the horse can get it on its nose or ingest it, both of which can cause new problems for the horse. However, with a veterinarian’s help, blistering may help to heal an injury to a ligament or tendon.

This answer was prepared with the help of Christine Garnier, Animal Science Research Student at the School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, Rutgers University.

Do sport boots support a horse's leg structure? Would you be able to recommend a particular type? Also, do they interfere when jumping a horse?

Sport or galloping boots do provide some support for horses’ legs, but they are mostly used for their protective properties. They prevent the horse from injuring its legs as a result of interference when galloping or from knocking a fence pole hard. I have never heard of them interfering when the horse is jumping. I always use them when jumping in the ring and when riding cross-country. Jumpers will often wear open front boots, but I prefer to use fully closed boots for cross-country.

There are some good “sports medicine boots” that claim to give the horse lots of support. However, I am not sure that there is research to support this. These boots do have a part that wraps around and under the fetlocks to (theoretically) provide some support. There is a German company that makes some very nice leather boots, but they are expensive. Other manufacturers produce a wide variety of leather boots as well. You can always purchase cheap boots, but they do not last long and provide little protection yet alone any support. I would definitely say "you get what you pay for" in this situation. You need to decide whether you want a Velcro closure or leather buckle; either is fine, depending on your personal taste. Your best option is to go into a tack store and look at what they have. You can also ask around at your barn or at shows to learn which ones people prefer.

A bow-legged horse has a flexural deformity originating at the knee or carpus joint. A straight leg is divided in half by an imaginary perpendicular line drawn down from the point of shoulder to the ground. In a bow-legged horse, the knee is typically to the outside of this line. Many young horses grow out of this deformity with little to no intervention.

Bow-leggedness is not correctable once the horse is of a mature age and the bones have stopped growing. However, if the horse is under 2 years of age, surgical intervention (with your veterinarian’s recommendation) is an option. Other veterinary therapies may be a possibility. As with any other conformational problem, consult your veterinarian to discuss what treatments may be best.

What is the current best practice for managing parasites? My vet says I do not need to worry about tapeworms if I am on a 6-week rotation of Strongid and Ivermectin. Is this true?

Usually an 8-week rotation of dewormer classes is appropriate. However, most normal classes of dewormers (avermectin and pyrantel) do not kill tapeworms. If you provide a double dose of pyrantel in the spring, that will help. Pharmaceutical companies have developed a specific tapeworm product containing the drug class praziquantel. Other products combine praziquantel with avermectin and kill about 100% of internal parasites. These are completely safe for horses.

As for a good dewormer rotation practice, give an Avermectin-based product in the late summer and fall to help with bots. Other rotations can include pyrantel products and/or benzimidazoles. There are other smaller classes of products that should be part of your rotation, including a praziquantel product in the spring.

I recommend sticking with an 8-week rotation. Research shows that even an 8-week rotation of products will result in resistant parasites over time; however this research is too new and not definitive enough for me to comment on at this time.

I have a question concerning the monthly cost (hay, grain, bedding) of keeping a horse. The horse in question is a 14-hand pony being kept on limited grazing with very light work (no health problems). Any assistance would be appreciated.

“Maintenance costs of horses are extensive and vary among geographic areas whether you keep the horse at home or board it at a commercial stable. The estimated cost of feeding a horse is approximately $100 per month. Additional expenses include veterinary and farrier fees, barn maintenance, bedding, electricity, and insurance. Based on the 1996 survey done for the New Jersey Equine Advisory Board, the annual cost for the privilege of owning a horse in the Garden State exceeds $8,000. You can see why boarding a horse at a stable may be an option. Monthly boarding costs in this state run from $250 to $1,000, depending on amenities offered by the facility, for an average of $400 per month.”

Since many of the costs have risen since this Fact Sheet was first written, you may want to check current costs with your local boarding stables or with friends who keep or board horses. Assuming the costs where you live are similar to those in New Jersey, hay is running at about $5 a bale, and a pony might eat one-fourth to one-half bale per day, depending on the size of the bale and quality of hay. Shavings are about $5 a bag, and using two to three bags a week is typical. Grain is about $12 for a 50-pound bag; a lightly worked pony may be fed little or no grain. Trimming feet runs about $30 a visit, and should be done every six weeks or so. Shoeing can run $150 or more per visit. Inoculations and routine veterinarian visits can run about $150-$200 and usually are scheduled twice a year. As the Fact Sheet above suggests, there are other "hidden" costs that one should take into consideration.

Answer provided by Diana M. Orban Brown, Director of Communications, Equine Science Center, Rutgers University.

I own a 3-year-old palomino paint stallion. He has a dark red dorsal stripe and darker-colored legs. I believe that he is a dunalino. His sire is registered as a palomino, but also has the dorsal stripe, darker legs and shoulder barring. His sire's dam is registered with the AQHA as a dun but she looks like a palomino with dun points. This mare's sire is a true dun and her dam is a palomino. My stallion's dam is a black out of a black and sorrel. Is there a test to see if he carries both the creme gene and the dun gene? If so, where is the best possible place to have him tested? Is the test done by hair strands or blood?

Dunalinos are getting fairly common in the AQHA and APHA, especially with the increased interest in cutting and reining and the proliferation of the Hollywood lines, which have a high percentage of dunalino. While there is currently no DNA test for dun or creme genes, this fellow certainly sounds like a dunalino to me, and certainly has the pedigree to substantiate it. The only way to test at this point is to see what sort of progeny he produces when bred to non-dun and non-palomino mares.

Answer provided by Rebecca Splan, Ph.D., Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University.

How can we eliminate horse flies? We try various fly sprays twice daily to no avail. What actually attracts horseflies, and how do they breed? (in manure, like house flies)?

Horse flies are one of the most problematic flies and one of the most difficult to control. The nature of this fly makes it almost impossible to eliminate through spraying programs. A horse fly will travel up to 15 to 20 miles for a blood meal, unlike mosquitoes, which will travel only 100 feet. Ultimate fly control includes eliminating all possible breeding grounds and feeding sources. This type of fly control is almost impossible with the horse fly, as can be seen in its biology. Horse flies do not breed indoors like houseflies. Females often lay eggs in specific locations, such as on vegetation overhanging water. Species are often locally abundant near breeding habitats, and the various species have distinctive adult activity periods during the year and/or during the day. Larvae live in species-specific habitats, most of which are aquatic, semi-aquatic or terrestrial.

In terms of treating horses, the most popular product is Permethrin-10 Concentrate. Permethrin-10 is one of the few materials on the market that can safely be used as a spray or wash for horses. It is a multi-use insecticide for indoors, outdoors, on animals and animal premises. It is very popular with veterinarians for its ability to control biting flies on horses, dogs and livestock. As safe as this product is for most mammals, it is not to be used as a spray, dip or rinse for cats, and should only be applied to the animals listed on the label. There are also fly and tick control treatments that you put on the middle of the horse’s back much like the Frontline product used on dogs and cats. Always read and follow the label instructions when using insect control products.

Answer provided by Carey Williams, Ph.D., Rutgers Cooperative Extension. Mention or display of a trademark, proprietary product, or firm in text or figures does not constitute an endorsement by the Equine Science Center or Rutgers University and does not imply approval to the exclusion of other suitable products or firms.

I have tried many fly sprays designed for horses, and it seems that human products made with DEET work much better. Is DEET safe to use on horses?

DEET is registered for use with the EPA as an insect and acarid (mite) repellent for many applications, including horses. Yet according to the DEET Education Program, there is no specific scientific information regarding the use of DEET on horses. However, I was able to find some information on a study on DEET performed in 1969:

(Palmer, J.S. 1969. Toxicologic effects of aerosols of N,N,-diethyl-m- toluene (DEET) applied on skin of horses. Am. J. Vet. Res., 30:1929-1932.) DEET in horses can cause "profuse sweating; irritation and exfoliation in horses have been reported following repeated applications of DEET at concentrations of 50% or greater. Repeated dermal application to horses produced hypersteatosis, an over activity of the sebaceous glands, when the solution of DEET was 15 % or higher."

I’m not aware of whether or not garlic is effective in controlling flies and other pests. A controlled study published in the March 2005 American Journal of Veterinary Research showed that 4 ounces of freeze dried garlic (roughly equivalent to the amount in some commercial garlic extracts) twice a day caused heinz body anemia and idiopathic sweating in horses. The sweating and anemia were dramatic in both garlic-treated horses. After 30 days off the garlic, the anemia had not completely resolved.

Fresh garlic is 63% water. Therefore, according to the study, you would have to feed almost a pound of fresh garlic twice a day to achieve the results shown in the study. A few fresh cloves probably won't hurt (or do any good), but the extracts could potentially pose a risk. The "safe" garlic dose was not established.

I would like your advice about what age is considered too old to geld a stallion. I am bringing a 17 year-old stallion into the US from Spain. The contagious equine metritis (CEM) quarantine cost is going to make bringing him home cost-prohibitive. I know that if he is gelded he won't need to be CEM quarantined. Please give us some advice.

My beloved Arab was castrated at 17 years of age. He had been used extensively as a stallion prior to castration before I purchased him. He not only survived but lived on to the ripe age of 31. That said, it took him a long time to recover both physically and mentally. He had a major environment change when he was 21(I moved him from Colorado to New Jersey) and that too took a toll on him.

Would I do it again, knowing what I know now? I think so -- but just be prepared for some depression and weight loss. Also, I would wait as long as possible after castration for the trip back to the US. He will need extra attention post-castration. Give him 5 grams of vitamin C orally twice a day and 1000 IU vitamin E orally once a day for at least 10 days after he is castrated and for 5 days after he is shipped. This will help to boost his immune system against the stresses incurred from both the surgery and shipping.

Answer provided by Sarah Ralston, VMD, Ph.D., dACVN, Rutgers Cooperative Extension.

I am interested in finding out the best age to geld a colt. Also, what is the least traumatic method, from both a physiological and psychological standpoint? I understand that the surgery can be performed with either a general or local anesthetic. What do you recommend?

In terms of when to castrate, the earlier it is done, the better. Theoretically, as soon as two testicles are present, the colt can be castrated. The earlier it's done the less traumatic it is for the colt. Once stallion-like behavior begins, it may not change with castration. Certainly, the longer the horse demonstrates stallion-like behavior before castration the less likely it is to change afterwards. Field anesthesia, when done correctly, is very safe. Therefore, general anesthesia is the best way to go.

What is the least stressful way to haul a horse? What factors can we control in addition to the length of the haul, temperature and position in trailer to create as stress-free a trip as possible?

Trailering horses does not have to be a stressful time. Taking the right precautions, checking safety conditions and making simple considerations can greatly reduce the stress of traveling. Many factors can affect a horse’s physiological and biological well-being such as temperature during traveling, the way a horse faces in the trailer, and even the conditions of the trailer. It is important to look at all the factors in advance before taking a trip to insure as little stress as possible.

• Temperature: When the weather temperature reaches between 75-90 degrees Fahrenheit it becomes harder for horses to maintain their homeothermy. Extremely high temperatures exceeding 90 degrees can make it difficult for horses to maintain sweating and respiratory mechanisms. Water and hay should always be available, especially on long trips. Try to travel when there is less traffic and on cooler days. During extremely cold weather, horses will have a larger calorie requirement as they utilize food energy for metabolic heat.

• Traveling time: Time should be kept at a minimum. Twenty-four to 48 hours of travel can produce long term stress. If you have to haul for long periods of time you should stop every 3-4 hours to give the horse’s legs a break from the movement and vibration.

• Maintain good air quality: Ensuring that the air is not stagnant or too drafty can reduce the probability of illness. Exhaust fumes or overheating can also occur and windows should be adjusted to maintain high air quality.

• Flooring: Whether rubber mats, wood shavings, or even sand, flooring can help keep a horse balanced and less stressed during a trip. After every trip, rubber mats or any other flooring should be cleaned and flushed out to reduce bacteria and insure the health of the horse.

• Trailer orientation: Horses are least likely to become stressed when facing backwards (and if given a choice prefer this direction), and given enough room to drop their heads a little past their shoulders. When the head is elevated for a long period of time, respiratory infections can occur. Slant load horse trailers have also been shown to decrease the amount of stress measured by stress hormones like cortisol and heart rate variability.

• Supplying water and feed: Whether or not a horse prefers to drink on trips, water should always be offered in a familiar bucket - at least every 6-8 hours if on long hauls. Dehydration is a common side effect that may lead to other problems. Hay can be offered depending on the length of the trip. Spraying it lightly with water can reduce dust which can affect a horse’s respiratory tract. However, it is not advised to feed a horse grain while traveling, since stress may build up and affect gut functions.

• Other factors: Horses will be less stressed when they are paired with horses they know. If this isn’t possible, when placing horses in a two horse bumper pull straight load, you should place the heavier horse (or a single horse) on the left side on the trailer or on the roadside.

Trailering horses should be a stress-free time. Practicing walking on and off regularly and taking short trips can help reduce stress on the animal. Also, checking the quality of the trailer is important when practicing safety measures to insure a smooth trip for you and your horse.

See the Rutgers Cooperative Extension fact sheets for more on trailering and stress.

Answer prepared with the help of Jeselyn Pena, Animal Science research student, The School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, Rutgers University.

I have a 12-year-old mare that had a colt that died within two days. It has been a few weeks and she is still squirting milk. Could you tell me how to get her to dry up?

In order for mares to completely stop producing milk, they need to have their feed intake reduced from what it was when they were foaling. If she is not exercising, she needs to go on a pasture or a hay-only diet! That will give her enough energy to maintain her body systems without adding extra energy, which is now going to produce milk. Make sure to frequently check her udder - if it turns hot and hard, she might have mastitis. If so, call a vet to check the problem.

We recently started working with orphaned foals. I'm wondering if you have any information or anything of value you might send our way to aid in this endeavor? We are working with a local vet and would appreciate any thoughts you have.

Orphaned foals are a tremendous responsibility and usually incur a large financial and emotional undertaking.

In our Young Horse Teaching and Research Program, we work with weanlings that have had the benefit of four to five months with their mare mothers. We have reduced post-transport health problems to virtually zero by getting the foals used to us before they are weaned and giving them supplemental vitamin C (0.01 gm/kg of body weight) twice a day for 5 days after arrival. They are fed a pelleted ration formulated specifically for growth and good quality hay. These measures, other than the vitamin supplements, may not be an option with your foals.

If the foals were very young when orphaned and not able to get colostrum they will be susceptible to a wide variety of infectious diseases. Only with intensive and very expensive therapy (intravenous serum/fluids, antibiotics, etc.) will they survive, let alone thrive. Even if they do get colostrum, feeding neonates, as I'm sure you are aware, is not an easy proposition. They should get a formula designed specifically for foals at least every 2 hours during the first week (foals normally nurse 3-4 times an hour during the first week!), then at least 4 feedings a day for the next few months until they can be weaned onto a hay/pasture/grain formulated for growth. Goat’s milk can be used, and in some cases a lactating dairy goat can be kept with the foal. Train the goat to stand on a platform so the foal can more easily nurse from her. Bear in mind that the risk of disease will still be great.

You'll also have to undertake the huge task of socialization. Orphan foals are notorious for having behavior problems. If not kept with other mature horses, they don't learn how to behave like a horse. They will consider humans to be their herd mates and treat them accordingly: biting, kicking, pushing, etc. It takes a lot of experience and some large measure of luck to develop them into a mature horse that knows how to behave properly, both around humans and other horses. Anyone who agrees to adopt or care for orphan foals must be carefully screened to insure that they have a lot of horse experience and that they fully understand what they are getting into.

Answer provided by Dr. Sarah Ralston, VMD, Ph.D., dACVN, Rutgers Cooperative Extension.

I have to write a paper on horses that are bred as domestic pets. Because I own a horse, I have always considered horses to be pets. But other students in my class didn’t feel the same way. I am wondering how horses are classified in the U.S.: work animals, domestic animals etc.?

Currently, the United States Department of Agriculture does not classify the horse as an agricultural or livestock animal, but as a companion animal or pet. Before the great age of mechanization and industrialization, the horse was certainly classified as a work horse. In the present day, that is not the case.

However, both you and your classmates are correct in your assessments. In some states, including New Jersey, the horse is classified as livestock and an agricultural animal. In others, such as the great commonwealth of Kentucky, horses are considered companion animals. So it is a state-by-state decision.

New Jersey worked very hard to have horses classified as livestock and agricultural animals. This classification benefits the horse in many ways. It helps provide horse owners with funding from federal agencies, ensures that horses are covered by the same precautions against disease as livestock, and provides tax benefits to farm owners. Whatever the formal classification, we all love our horses and know that they mean more to us than their classification describes. I hope this answer helps you in your paper preparation. You might like to know that your classroom is not alone -- this discussion continues to go on around the world!

I have a 17-year-old Pinto/Morgan gelding. He has equine metabolic syndrome and is doing very well now that he is on a low-sugar diet. He gets a measured feeding 2 times a day of a high-fiber, high-fat feed. He has access to good forage between feedings. However, he has sand-related diarrhea. He has an uncanny way of eating everything but the equine formulated sand-clearing medication added to the feed in his bucket. The medication is too expensive for me to keep feeding if he won’t eat it. I'd like to try something else. Do you have any suggestions of another product that might help?

Psyllium is the active ingredient in most equine sand-clearing medications. Though it would probably be as effective as the medicine if you fed it alone, however it would be very expensive in the quantities needed for a horse. Try grinding the medicine pellets into a powder in a coffee grinder and adding a flavoring your horse might prefer (e.g. one or two peppermints ground in would not be an issue with his metabolic syndrome and might mask any odor/flavor he objects to). If you can reduce his chance of sand ingestion that would also help. Feed his hay off the ground and put mats under the feeder so he won't pick up more sand when scavenging the hay he spills on the ground.

Answer provided by Dr. Sarah Ralston, VMD, Ph.D., dACVN, Rutgers Cooperative Extension.

I am curious about the influence of the horse’s spleen on their aerobic capacity. Do you know what level of exertion a horse needs to mobilize the red blood cell (RBC) reserve? Is it an "all or none" process? Will emotional stress - like an environment with commotion - mobilize these RBCs? How long or fast must a horse go to utilize this source of energy?

Also, after a strenuous workout, how long does it take for the blood cells to pool back into the spleen? Is there anything we can do to make this process more efficient, or things we should watch for to avoid complications from viscosity? Is blood viscosity related to horses "tying up?"

About a third of the red blood cells (RBC) in a horse’s body are stored in the spleen (~ 8-12 liters depending on breed, sex, age, fitness status, etc.). This reserve is released into circulation in response to an increase in hormones, specifically adrenaline, due to the anticipation, onset, and duration of intense exercise. Mental excitation due to environmental commotion can cause increases in adrenaline and other stress hormones that would elicit a splenic contraction. Intensity and duration of exercise determines the magnitude of the response and therefore the volume of RBCs released from the spleen. Packed cell volume (PCV or hematocrit) is the number of RBCs in a given volume of whole blood. It increases in a linear fashion with increases in speed.

Along with an increase in PCV, there is also a decrease in plasma levels during exercise due to fluid shifts. As PCV increases, so does the viscosity of the blood. As blood viscosity increases, it increases the workload on the heart. Therefore, additional blood doping (increasing red blood cells in circulation) is unnecessary and could even be detrimental to the horse’s ability to circulate blood to the working muscles and organs -- possibly through reduced cardiac output.

The horse is an extraordinary athlete and a natural blood doper; pharmaceutical treatment to alter this can be detrimental to the horse’s performance and health and is illegal in most cases. There are serious ethical concerns with pharmacological intervention to increase PCV as well. For example, the administration of recombinant human erythropoietin (rhEPO) to horses is intended to enhance performance by increasing hematocrit and therefore oxygen-carrying capacity to supply the working muscles with oxygen. Although the drug does increase RBC mass as well as other indicators of exercise capacity, there are serious and potentially fatal adverse effects that can result from its administration to horses. Good nutritional management and a good training regimen are probably the two best ways to maximize fitness level and aerobic capacity in the equine athlete.

With the onset of high intensity exercise (such as when a horse in the wild is escaping a predator), complete mobilization of splenic RBCs occurs within about 20 seconds. Upon completion of exercise, the splenic reserve is reabsorbed within an hour.

An increase in circulating red blood cells increases the horse’s oxygen-carrying capacity through an increase in hemoglobin concentration; however, it is not an energy substrate such as glucose, glycogen or fatty acids. Complete splenic mobilization of RBCs results in a 150 g/L to 220 g/L increase in circulating hemoglobin. This increased oxygen transport capacity contributes significantly to the horse’s high aerobic capacity. To illustrate this further, it has been shown that splenectomized horses (horses with spleens removed) have a greatly reduced exercise capacity. It has also been shown that training increases the oxygen-carrying capacity of the equine athlete through greater splenic emptying. Body weight relative to PCV has also been correlated and is thought to be related to racing performance in trotters.

To my knowledge, Blood viscosity is not related to tying-up syndrome (exertional rhabdomyolysis, ER; recurrent exertional rhabdomyolysis, RER; or polysaccharide storage myopathy, PSSM). Several things are suspected to play a role in the causes and physiological changes of ER, RER, and PSSM, including overextension (performing beyond fitness level), eccentric contraction of muscles (delayed onset muscle soreness), metabolic exhaustion, calcium uptake malfunction by the muscle cells, oxidative injury, electrolyte imbalance, hormonal influence, and infection (EHV1 and EIV). More research is needed to further explain the physical states and treatment regimes for horses suffering from ER, RER, or PSSM. In any case, if you suspect any of these ailments an equine veterinarian should be consulted.

This answer was prepared with the help of Emily Lamprecht, Rutgers University, Doctoral Graduate Student in Animal Science.

I own a 14-hand Irish Sport Horse. He’s turning 4 in December but I’m not sure how tall he’s going to get. He is wearing a full horse size bridle and head collar. He has a thin build and very long legs for his height. Do you have any idea how tall he will be?

It is really hard for me to tell you without actually seeing him. However, there is a way you can measure and estimate his mature height.

Take a measuring tape, string, baling twine, etc. and put one end on the elbow and the other end on the ground. Then, keeping the one end on the elbow, take the ground end and extend it to above his withers (you might need another person to help you do this). Where the twine ends is “supposed” to be a horse’s mature height. Since horses are supposed to be equal in length from their elbows to the ground and in the width of their barrels, this method should give you at least a rough estimate.

Not very long. Typically horses cannot survive without water for more than 2 or 3 days. Keep in mind there is also water on and in feed that they may eat. So this time frame may vary depending on the feed they have access to.

Horses will drink 2 quarts of water for every pound of hay they consume. This is true for all horses regardless of size. So the amount of water a miniature horse will drink each day depends on how much hay it is eating daily. Other varying factors include ambient temperature, relative humidity and activity level. Horses exercising in hot or humid weather can consume up to 3-4 times the amount they normally would in cooler weather.

The material provided on this site is for educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, prevent, or treat any illness. Any recommendations are not intended to replace the advice of your veterinarian. Any products mentioned are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent disease. Mention or display of a trademark, proprietary product, or firm in text or figures does not constitute an endorsement by the Equine Science Center or Rutgers University and does not imply approval to the exclusion of other suitable products or firms.